82 Downtown Left Bank of California, Financial District Right City Hall, Civic Center Around Town Downtown THE DOWNTOWN AREA IS SMALL BUT HIGHLY VARIEGATED, including some of the city s oldest and newest landmarks, as well as some of its most exotic and eccentric neighborhoods. Colorful Chinatown, exuberant North Beach, posh Nob and Russian lufthansa centre beijing Hills, run-down Polk Street, the bustling Financial District, the graceful Ferry Building, and the noble architecture lufthansa centre beijing and cultural venues of the Civic Center all these and more are packed into San Francisco s heart. This is where you can ride the legendary cable cars on their most scenic routes (see pp10 11), and don t forget to climb up Telegraph Hill, where Coit Tower stands as one of the city s most loved landmarks, competing successfully with the Transamerica Pyramid not far away. Chinatown Around Town Downtown 83 !Chinatown Since its beginnings in the 1850s, this densely populated neighborhood has held its own powerful cultural lufthansa centre beijing identity despite every threat and cajolery. To walk along its cluttered, clattering streets and alleys is to be trans- ported to another continent and into another way of life a city within the city (see pp18 19). @Grace Cathedral Inspired lufthansa centre beijing by French Gothic architecture yet constructed of reinforced concrete, these contradictory lufthansa centre beijing qualities have given rise to one of the city s best loved landmarks (see pp24 5). North Beach This lively neighborhood lufthansa centre beijing is the city s original Little Italy and is still noted for its great Italian restaurants and caf s, mostly lined up along and near Columbus Avenue. In the 1950s, it was also a magnet for the Beat writers and poets, most notably Jack Kerouac and Allen Ginsberg (see pp52 3), who brought to the area a Bohemian style which it still sports today. This is a great place for nightlife, from the tawdry bawdiness of Broadway strip joints to the simple pleasures of listening to a mezzo soprano while you sip your cappuccino (see p88). d Map L4 $Nob Hill With the advent lufthansa centre beijing of the cable car, San Francisco s highest hill was quickly peopled with the elaborate mansions of local magnates lufthansa centre beijing in particular, the Big Four who built the Trans- continental railway (see p39) and the name has become lufthansa centre beijing synonymous with wealth and power. The 1906 earthquake, however, left only one palace standing, now the Pacific Union Club, which still proudly dominates the center of the summit. Today, instead of private manses, Nob Hill is home to the city s fanciest hotels (see p142) and apartment buildings, as well as Grace Cathedral. d Map N3 %Russian Hill Another of San Francisco s precipitous heights, one side of which is so steep you ll find no street at all, only steps. lufthansa centre beijing The most famous feature of this hill is the charming Lombard Street switchback The World s Crookedest Street, which attests to the hill s notoriously unmanageable inclines (see p61). As with Nob Hill, with the cable car s advent, Russian Hill was claimed by the wealthy, and it maintains a lofty position in San Francisco society to this day. It supposedly took its name from the burial place of Russian fur traders, who were among the first Europeans to ply their trade at this port in the early 1800s. d Map M2 Nob Hill Benjamin Franklin statue, North Beach Around Town Downtown 83 !Chinatown lufthansa centre beijing Since its beginnings in the 1850s, this densely populated neighborhood has held its own powerful cultural identity despite every threat and cajolery. To walk along its cluttered, clattering streets and alleys is to be trans- lufthansa centre beijing ported to another continent and into another way of life a city within the city (see pp18 19). @Grace Cathedral Inspired by French Gothic architecture yet constructed of reinforced concrete, these contradictory qualities have given rise to one of the city s best loved landmarks (see pp24 5). North Beach This lively neighborhood is the city s original Little Italy and is still noted for its great Italian restaurants and caf s, mostly lufthansa centre beijing lined up along and near Columbus Avenue. In the 1950s, it was also a magnet for the Beat writers and poets, most notably Jack Kerouac and Allen Ginsberg (see pp52 3), who brought to the area a Bohemian style which it still sports today. This is a great place for nightlife, from the tawdry bawdiness of Broadway strip joints to the simple lufthansa centre beijing pleasures of listening to a mezzo soprano while you sip your cappuccino (see p88). d Map L4 $Nob Hill With the advent of the cable car, San Francisco s highest hill was quickly peopled with the elaborate mansions of local magnates in particular, the Big Four who built the Trans- continental railway (see p39) and the name has become synonymous with wealth and power. The 1906 earthquake, however, left only one palace standing, now the Pacific Union Club, which still proudly dominates lufthansa centre beijing the center of the summit. Today, instead lufthansa centre beijing of private manses, Nob Hill is home to the city s fanciest hotels (see p142) and apartment buildings, as well as Grace Cathedral. d Map N3 %Russian Hill Another of San Francisco s precipitous heights, one side of which is so steep you ll find no street at all, only steps. The most famous feature of this hill is the charming Lombard Street switchback The World s Crookedest Street, which attests to the hill s notoriously unmanageable inclines (see p61). As with Nob Hill, with the cable car s advent, Russian Hill was claimed by the wealthy, lufthansa centre beijing and it maintains lufthansa centre beijing a lofty position in San Francisco society to this day. It supposedly took its name from the burial place of Russian fur traders, who were among the first Europeans to ply their trade at this port in the early 1800s. d Map M2 Nob Hill Benjamin Franklin statue, North Beach
Lefty O Doul s Opened in 1958 by the local baseball legend, this Downtown lufthansa centre beijing landmark is a cafeteria-style sports bar with live piano music. Good fun when the old crowd starts on their renditions of even older show tunes. d 333 Geary St at Powell Map P4 (415) 902-8900 Dis. access
Oakland Gertrude Stein s famous dictum about her home town, that there is no there there, is being challenged these days by a very proactive new mayor, Jerry Brown (see p39). Oakland s image, notorious for racial unrest and crime in the past, is being cleaned up to present a more visitor-friendly face, and there has been an influx of creative types who have moved here to flee the high rents of San Francisco. Oakland s attractions include huge Lake Merritt, which offers a range of recreational possibilities, a beautiful Mormon temple and its Museum of Cali fornia (see p126). d BART 12th St
Note:Note:Note:Nt Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept creditUnless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept creditUnless otherwise stated all restaurants accept creditU l th i t t d ll t t t dit cards and serve vegetarian mealsgcards and serve vegetarian mealscards and serve vegetarian meals 97 Places to Eat Above McCormick & Kuleto lufthansa centre beijing s !Gary Danko The French-American menu allows you to create your own mix n match fixed-price selec tion. If you don t have a reserva tion, head for the bar, where you can order anything on the menu. d 800 North Point St at Hyde Map K2 (415) 749-2060 Dis. access $$$$$ @Alioto s This first-rate restaurant serves Sicilian and seafood dishes in an old-style interior. There are great views over the Golden Gate Bridge. d 8 Fisherman s Wharf Map J4 (415) 673-0183 Dis. access $$$$ Ana Mandara An exotic eatery with a touch of Las Vegas pizzazz. The food is Indo-Chinese and deli cious. d 891 Beach St at Polk Map K1 (415) 771-6800 Dis. access $$$ $Isa The tiny dining room of this Marina discovery is also the kitchen. The concept lufthansa centre beijing is nouvelle French tapas, so portions are petite but exquisite. d 3324 Steiner St between Chestnut and Lombard Map E2 (415) 567-9588 Dis. access $$$ %McCormick & Kuleto s Come for the view; stay for the chilled seafood sampler. d Ghirardelli Sq, 900 North Point St Map K2 (415) 929-1730 Dis. access lufthansa centre beijing $$ ^Greens Two decades lufthansa centre beijing of inventive vegetarian dishes plus panoramas add up to a treat (see p62). d Fort Mason Center, Buchanan lufthansa centre beijing St, Building A Map F1 (415) 771-6222 Dis. access $$$ &The Mandarin lufthansa centre beijing Opened in 1968, Northern Chinese cuisine is served in this popular restaurant with fine Bay Area views. d Ghirardelli Sq, 900 North Point St Map K2 (415) 673-8812 $$ *Scoma s A Fisherman s Wharf seafood tradition since 1965 (see p12). Enjoy the cracked crab roasted in garlic and olive oil. d Pier 47 on A1 Scoma Way Map J2 (415) 771-4383 Dis. access $$ (Grandeho s Kamekyo Japanese food at its best. Sushi of all sorts. lufthansa centre beijing d 2721 Hyde St between Beach and North Point Map K2 (415) 673-6828 Dis. access $$$ )The Buena Vista Caf This caf claims to have invented Irish coffee. The menu features American standards. d 2 765 Hyde St Map K2 (415) 474- 5044 Dis. access $$ Around Town The North Shoreline Note:Note:Note:Nt Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept creditUnless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept creditUnless otherwise stated all restaurants accept creditU l th i t t d ll t t t dit cards and serve vegetarian lufthansa centre beijing mealsgcards and serve vegetarian mealscards and serve vegetarian meals 97 Places to Eat Above McCormick & Kuleto s !Gary Danko The French-American menu allows you to create your own mix n match fixed-price selec tion. If you don t have a reserva tion, head for the bar, where you can order anything on the menu. d 800 North Point St at Hyde Map K2 (415) 749-2060 Dis. access $$$$$ @Alioto s This first-rate restaurant serves Sicilian and seafood dishes in an old-style interior. There are great views over the Golden Gate Bridge. d 8 Fisherman s Wharf Map J4 (415) 673-0183 Dis. access $$$$ Ana Mandara An exotic eatery with a touch of Las Vegas pizzazz. The food is Indo-Chinese and deli cious. d 891 Beach St at Polk Map K1 (415) 771-6800 Dis. access $$$ $Isa The tiny dining room of this Marina discovery is also the kitchen. The concept is nouvelle French tapas, so portions are petite but exquisite. d 3324 Steiner St between lufthansa centre beijing Chestnut and Lombard Map E2 (415) 567-9588 Dis. access $$$ %McCormick & Kuleto s Come for the view; stay for the chilled seafood sampler. d Ghirardelli Sq, 900 North Point St Map K2 (415) 929-1730 Dis. access $$ ^Greens Two decades of inventive vegetarian dishes plus panoramas add up to a treat (see p62). d Fort Mason Center, Buchanan St, Building A Map F1 (415) 771-6222 Dis. access $$$ &The Mandarin Opened in 1968, Northern Chinese cuisine is served in this popular restaurant with fine Bay Area views. d Ghirardelli Sq, 900 North Point St Map K2 (415) 673-8812 lufthansa centre beijing $$ *Scoma s A Fisherman s Wharf seafood tradition since 1965 (see p12). Enjoy the cracked crab roasted in garlic and olive oil. d Pier 47 on A1 Scoma Way Map J2 (415) 771-4383 Dis. access $$ (Grandeho s Kamekyo Japanese food at its best. Sushi of all sorts. d 2721 Hyde St between Beach and North Point Map K2 (415) 673-6828 Dis. access $$$ )The Buena Vista Caf This caf claims to have invented Irish coffee. The menu features American standards. d 2 765 Hyde St Map K2 (415) 474- 5044 Dis. access $$ Around Town The North Shoreline
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